(The following info is the same info printed and given to every buyer)

 

CAVY INFO

The Guinea Pig is part of the rodent family, and has been popular as a household pet in Western cultures since the 1500s. The term Guinea Pig is misleading as they are not part of the Pig family, nor are they from Guinea (they originated in the Andes, in South America)! They are more correctly referred to as a CAVY (cah-vee), or plural CAVIES, due to their scientific classification; Genus “Cavia” species “Cavia porcellus”. You may hear Cavy fanciers use the two terms interchangeably, or they may refer to their Guinea pigs by specific breeds, such as Skinny Pigs, Lakelands, Smooth-coats, Abyssinians, Peruvians, Silkies, etc as cavies have been bred & classified into about 20 different breeds & varieties.

Guinea pigs weigh from 1.5lbs – 3lbs as adults, and measure 8-10 inches in length, with boars (males) being larger than sows (females). Cavies can live up to 10 years, although 6-8years is average.

Cavies are extremely social and are happiest when living with other cavies. Guinea pigs thrive in groups of two or more; groups of sows, or groups of one or more sows and a neutered boar are common combinations. Guinea pigs learn to recognize other individual guinea pigs, and will often stay close to their favorite companion (commonly referred to “bonded pairs”). In the wild Cavies live in small groups of 5-10, and they will eat, sleep & rest together, and will rely on their group to alert each other to potential danger. A cavy kept alone can feel lonely, anxious & afraid.

 

CAGING

When it comes to cages, the bigger the better! Cavies are active and love to explore & forage around their enclosure. Large rabbit cages, C&C cages*, dog cages, exercise pens or kiddie pools work well. Do not use aquariums as air circulation is poor and may lead to respiratory problems. A top is not necessarily needed, as cavies cannot climb or jump well, however a top is helpful to keep children, other pets or predators out.

*C&C stands for “Cubes & Coroplast” referring to the storage cube panels & corrugated plastic used in making these cages. They are actually inexpensive to make and can be made in various sizes to fit any budget or location.

-The bottom of the cage can be lined with pine or aspen shavings (recommended for “furry” pigs only) or with a soft recycled paper bedding or fleece (best for skinny pigs). Cavies can also be litter trained to a certain extent, but be sure not to use clay kitty litters. Do not use cedar shavings at all; although pleasantly aromatic, the natural phenols & oils in cedar can be damaging to skin and respiratory systems.

-Place cage in a draft free area. Be sure to keep Skinny pigs away from cold or direct sunlight, as they have no fur to protect them from chills or from sunburn.

-A heat lamp is not needed to keep Skinny pigs warm, and may cause dehydration if used. Keep their cage out of cold & drafty areas, and provide a fuzzy snuggle sac or snuggle tube, or even a fleece blanket, if you are worried about chilled Skinny pigs. (Or better yet, a furry piggy companion to snuggle with!)

- Cavy urine can collect & crystallize in area of the cage where they eliminate most frequently, and this hard scaly white coating can be difficult to clean. The secret to cleaning cavy urine is White Vinegar! Keep plain undiluted white vinegar in a spray bottle; spray on, let sit for a minute or two and then just scrub lightly & wipe away!

 

FEEDING

FOOD: Feed a good quality plain pellet food designed for cavies, with stabilized vitamin C. Provide clean pellet food in a low dish at all times. Do not waste money on foods that include seeds, grains, nuts or “treats” mixed in, as cavies cannot chew or digest them properly. Do not feed rabbit food as it lacks the added vitamin C needed by cavies. Skinny Pigs eat significantly more than their furry relatives, as they burn more food energy just staying warm, so ensuring your Skinny pig always has good quality food available is crucial.

WATER: Provide free access to clean water at all times. This is especially important for skinny pigs as they lose more moisture through evaporation than a “furry” pig, and need to be able to replenish their fluid loss at all times. Water bottles are a better option than a dish, as bottles help keep the water clean and free of bedding & debris.

HAY: Have a good quality dust free grass hay available at all times. Hay helps assist with digestion and is essential to wearing down molars. (Grass hays include timothy, meadow, orchard, bermuda, bluegrass and others). Alfalfa hay can be used as supplemental hay in addition to the grass hay if your cavies are under 6 months, are pregnant or are nursing. If you feed calcium enriched veggies an additional two-three times per week, or if you are feeding an alfalfa based pellet, alfalfa hay isn't really needed. Grain hays (such as wheat, oat, etc) can be used as occasional treats but not for everyday use.

VEGGIES & FRUIT: Feed a minimum of 1 cup veggies, per cavy, per day. Feed a variety of veggies & fruits. Feed 2 parts leafy greens, to one part non-leafy veggies. Fruits can be given in moderation; 2-3 times per week at most, as they are high in sugars. Provide vegetables/fruits low in calcium (calcium can cause bladder sludge/ stones). Provide vegetables/fruits low in oxalic acid (can bind with calcium and form oxalate stones).

TREATS: Fresh fruits & veggies are your cavy’s treats. Do not buy store bought treats, such as yogurt drops, seed sticks, etc.

VITAMIN C: Guinea Pigs cannot produce their own Vitamin C, and can become deficient (and develop Scurvy) if Vitamin C is not supplied to them by the foods they eat. Good quality pellet food designed for Guinea pigs should already have stabilized Vitamin C added to it. (Please read the package to be sure!) So as long as your cavy is eating a good quality fresh pellet food, as well as fresh veggies & fruit, then additional Vitamin C supplementation is generally not needed. Only supplement cavies with Vitamin C if they will not eat good quality vegetables/fruits or if they are ill. Use a plain Vitamin C tablet with very little to no sugar added. Give approximately 25-50mg per day. You also may use a liquid Vitamin C that you can dose directly into the mouth using a syringe. Do not use Vitamin C drops or multi-vitamin drops that you put in water as Vitamin C degrades quickly in water and light and may distort the taste of the water making your cavy drink less.

DO NOT FEED: Do not feed meat or dairy products as cavies are strict herbivores. Do not feed bread, cereal, crackers, cookies, baked goods or other grains, as grains products are not well digested by cavies. Do not feed nuts or seeds, as cavies cannot chew them properly and may choke, plus they are not well digested.

 

GROOMING

Aside from occasional nail trims, a healthy guinea pig usually needs very little grooming and seldom need baths.  However, you may want to go above & beyond when grooming your cavy either because they have become dirty, to aid with dry skin (common with Skinny pigs), keep long coated pigs looking their best, reduce shedding, reduce allergens, prep a piggy for show, or to help elderly or geriatric pigs who are no longer grooming themselves regularly.

BATHING: Bathe your pig gently in shallow warm water with an appropriate shampoo or wash. For furry pigs, use a specialized small animal shampoo or a mild hypoallergenic puppy/kitten shampoo. For Skinny pigs, use a mild baby bath (different from baby shampoo). Scrub gently, with your fingers for furry pigs, or with a soft fleece or baby washcloth for Skinny pigs. Avoid wetting or washing the face & ears as it will be difficult to rinse without upsetting the piggy. Be sure to wash the grease gland, a scent marking organ located on the bum, about where the tail would be located if they had one! (This step is particularly important for older boars or obese cavies, who can have problems with dirty impacted grease glands). Rinse well and pat dry, and keep cavy in a warm draft free spot until completely dry. Long-haired or thick-coated pigs can be blow dried on the lowest setting. Skinny pigs can be left wrapped in clean dry towels until no longer damp. Skinny Pigs also benefit from a rub down with a small amount coconut oil or mild hypoallergenic moisturizer (such as bag balm) when dry, to aid in keeping skin soft and moist.

NAILS: Trimming cavy nails is essentially the same as trimming a dog or cat nails; take care to not cut the nail too short or you will cut the blood supply that runs down the middle of the nail (called the “quick”). Use small cat nail trimmers and trim off only the pointed/hooked tip of the nail. If you accidentally cut the quick, don’t panic! Use plain corn starch, or a store bought clotting agent such as “Kwik stop”, held on the end of the nail to stop the bleeding.

 

OTHER CAVY INFO...

-Do not use exercise balls or wheel for Guinea Pigs, regardless of how large they are. A cavy’s spine is not designed to bend in a concave manner and use of an exercise ball or wheel can be harmful.

- The cavy’s natural survival instinct is to mask pain and signs of illness & injury to avoid attracting predators, so many times health problems may not be apparent until a condition is severe or in its advanced stages. Treatment of disease is made more difficult by the extreme sensitivity guinea pigs have to most antibiotics, which kill off the intestinal flora and can quickly bring on episodes of diarrhea, dehydration and in some cases, death. Cavy owners need to be aware or any slight changes in their pet’s behavior, mobility or routine which may signal illness, as catching illness in its most early stages is crucial to keeping your cavy healthy.

-“*Gag* Did I just see my Guinea pig eat it own poop?!?!” Unfortunately yes, cavies sometimes consume their own fecal matter, but not all the time and not the “regular” long oval fecal matter that is most commonly expelled. Guinea pigs occasionally produce special soft pellets, called cecotropes, which recycle B vitamins, fiber, and bacteria required for proper digestion. The cecotropes (or caecal pellets) are usually eaten directly from the anus, unless the cavy is pregnant or obese. They share this behavior with rabbits, and although gross, it’s essential for a healthy digestive tract, and for a healthy cavy.

-Cavies are extremely vocal and can make numerous different sounds, including the common loud “Wheek” when they are excited (or occasionally when scared), or bubbling/purring when content. Also included in a Cavy’s vocal repertoire are rumbling, chutting, whining, chattering, squealing, shrieking & chirping.

-When happy, a cavy will hop around and kick its feet in the air, commonly called “Popcorning”, and it’s the ultimate sign of a happy, healthy and well adjusted Guinea Pig!

 

 

 

 

 

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